The two co-authors of the world's best known Christmas hymn, "Silent Night, Holy Night," lived a few miles apart in two small towns near Salzburg, Austria, in the early 1800s. Pastor Joseph Mohr (who wrote the words) lived in Oberndorf ; schoolteacher Franz Gruber (who composed the music) resided in Arnsdorf. The two friends frequently walked back and forth through the countryside to visit each other.

011892 Heading toward Arnsdorf from the town's commuter railroad stop as the light of day starts to fade.

Every Christmas Eve, thousands of residents of Salzburg and nearby towns retrace the steps of the Gruber and Mohr through the still rural countryside between the two towns, beginning in the tiny village of Arnsdorf and heading towards the larger Oberndorf. The procession is known as the Gruber-Mohr Memorial Walk.

	011904 A look toward Arnsdorf from the road that leads into the small town from its commuter railroad stop about half a mile away.
	011914 In a snow-covered farm field, a local honor guard of marksmen fires celebratory "Böller," a word that describes both the shoulder-fired mini-canons used and the loud bang that they produce.

The participants first gather in Arnsdorf for brief ceremonies that begin just as the last light of day is fading. The ceremonies conclude with the singing of "Silent Night," first by a lone male soloist, accompanied only by a guitar (as in the first performance in Oberndorf on Christmas Eve, 1818) and then with the voices of the entire crowd.

011896 Headed to Arnsdorf from the Arnsdorf commuter railway stop, a young march participant has his favorite stuffed toy in his backpack.

Many of those taking part arrive from downtown Salzburg on a special train of the Salzburger Lokalbahn (Salzburg Lokal Railway), one of the largest trains that line sends out all year. The Arnsdorf commuter railroad stop, which typically sees only a handful of people all day, is itself more than half a mile from the town.

011919 At the edge of the crowd in the Arnsdorf town square, participants light each other's candles.

At the conclusion of the Arnsdorf ceremonies, the large crowd, carrying candles, lanterns, and torches, sets out into the night toward Oberndorf. The flames that the participants are carrying are lit from lanterns with the "Friedenslicht" (Light of Peace).

Click here for a page with related images and an explanation of the Light of Peace tradition.

These images are from the Gruber-Mohr Memorial Walk on Christmas Eve, 2001, with a thick cover of snow on the ground and bitter cold.

011935 Candles in the crowd. The church of Arnsdorf and the town Christmas tree are in the background.
011940 A warmly bundled-up march participant has his flame in a small lantern, ready to be taken home after the procession.

Click on any of the images above or below for a larger version.

011952 Marchers heading towards Oberndorf through the snow-covered countryside.

Go to my main Austria in Winter page.

Go to a page of images of the distribution of the Friedenslicht (Light of Peace) flame on Christmas Eve.

Go to a page with images of a winter steam locomotive excursion.

The images on these and my other Austria thumbnail pages are only samples. If you are interested in coverage of Austria and don't see the image you want on my Web site, please contact me, and I'll be happy to search my files for additional material. I also welcome writing projects focusing on Austria and have both substantial reference material on Austria and numerous information contacts in Austria. I speak and read German fluently.

[Rev. 2002/02/08]

Please also visit my other Austria thumbnail pages with sample images:

• Austria (1): Primarily Vienna and eastern Austria.
• Austria (2): Primarily Innsbruck and Salzburg (non-winter)

And, you may also be interested in my sample travel feature:

• The slow side of the Danube--a rail trip along the north shore in Austria

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